Sunday, December 20, 2009

Drumroll, please...

Here's the Africa plan as it currently stands:

I'm leaving Massachusetts on the 9th of January, and arriving in Capetown, South Africa the 11th, where I'll be volunteering at Drakenstein Lion Sanctuary until the 30th.
Plans for February and March are still unclear, but I'll be spending most of April at the Bally Vaughan Sanctuary in Zimbabwe. By then, I imagine my funds will have dwindled, and I'll most likely wend my way back to the United States.

Since my last entry, I've been puttering about in preparation, which has required me to mix with strange folk: namely, doctors and trainers.

Doctors: to deal with my sinuses, which seem to be plotting world domination. Dealing with them has felt something like laying siege... Perplexed by my symptoms, they treated me for both allergies and a sinus infection. We fired omoxycillin first, but that only made it angry, so we brought out a bigger, pinker cannon called azithromycin, which seems to have had better luck, at least so far. Next I need to discuss the issue of cholera vaccines, and maybe a flu shot, not so much for my benefit as for that of the HIV population of Africa.

Trainers: Trainers are evil. They are also fascinating. In the first meeting, they bring out a nasty little program that takes all your measurements and creates a computerized model of you in a skintight leotard that you would never wear, if only to avoid having every flaw highlighted. You leave the session feeling about as attractive as a troll with facial hair. Then in the second session, you get a workout. My trainer showed me all sorts of handy-dandy exercises I could do without a gym, in response to my unorthodox lifestyle. She also said encouraging things about my current strength, despite that fact that I waddled out of there and could barely get up and down stairs all the next day!

Monday, December 14, 2009

An Admittedly Dry and Overdue Account of Recent Developments

It really is time to update what I've been up to. First of all, plans for Africa are progressing... and I won't tell you how, because you lot always jinx things for me! What I can tell you is that I won't be pulling my usual routine of sticking in one place. Most affordable African programs are more interested in short term volunteers, and many are specialized, so I'm applying to a number of different types of programs in various countries. Some applications are out, and I've even had a few acceptances, but I'm going to be miserly with the details for now.

Until then, I'm trying to get my body in working order. I've had a sinus infection for the last month and a half, so that will have to go. Also, I was beginning to feel that I've been too graceful lately, so late one night a few weeks ago, I fell down the stairs and messed up one shoulder. My gym offers one free session with a trainer, so maybe they can sort me out. Meanwhile, I'm trying to resist the urge to judge myself by some of the other gym rats.

Judging by various acceptances, it looks like I'll be leaving in early January, and staying at least through April. There are a lot of people I want to see (ahem-Miss Aussie Fantastico, you know who you are) and places I want to visit before I set sail, so fingers crossed, please!

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Dreams are more fun

Firstly, thank you Karin for the encouragement and reminder that life won't just drop things in my lap on my schedule. I don't always remember these things, and I've decided to show my thanks by describing a dream I had the other day about Blue on Black. It gave me a good chuckle when I woke up:

In my dream, I was visiting Blue on Black around this year's Iditarod race. I discovered soon after arriving that the kennel had received a sizable amount of funding, far outstripping their needs (for those outside the field, this would never happen). Karin, you had at least three handlers, and about seven young people boarding there, paying rent. It was like a youth hostel. Barley loved it. Also, there were tiny puppies running around everywhere. I barely saw Karin or Varan, because all their time was spent running various teams. Mind you, not all the teams were dogs. You had received so much random funding, Karin, that you decided to have some fun by adopting a passel of various large carnivorous cats- lions, cheetahs, snow tigers, a few others- and teaching them to run through the snow in harness.h

Maybe something to think about for next year? When I become a rich and semi-famous author, I'll see about arranging that kind of funding...

Thursday, November 26, 2009

The Small and the Scrappy

Yesterday morning I was gazing out the window, and I noticed that one of our resident chipmunk colony was bouncing around among the dead ferns and underbrush. It took me a moment to realize what he was up to- see, we've got all kinds of migrating flocks stopping by to feed on the bushes around the vernal stream. The chipmunk was taking extreme exception to the invaders. I watched him chase away one little brown bird after another, growing increasingly frustrated as they continued to settle down again as soon as another quarry distracted him. He even attacked a cardinal. I have to admit, I was impressed.

I've been reading a book of stories written by a guy who leads safaris in Botswana. Thanks to this guy, I'm now versed in what to do if charged by a cape buffalo, as opposed to a lion. Oh yes, very different defense strategies. And he's introduced a new animal to me, something which lions and rhinos and even hippos fear-- the elephant? No. Hyena? No.... Honey Badger.
Look it up. The honey badger is apparently one of africa's most dangerous animals, partly because when it's cornered, it goes straight for the genitals with its giant, diggy-claws. Hearing this, people tend to think only of the inherent pain and humiliation, but there's also a major artery in the groin, so you'd die pretty quickly. This critter is my new hero and will definitely turn up in my books.

So this is my note of appreciation for small beings that nevertheless make their opinions known and respected- a gift I wish I had. Then again, my size is roughly average. Ah well, I work on being scrappy. I do all right in work situations, but I'm sorry to say I often crumble under social attacks. Working on it. At least the work thing is more important.

In other news, I'm still working on finding a suitable program- these things always seem to go at a snail's pace, until suddenly they kick into overdrive. Meanwhile, I'm making sure to get to the gym. There hasn't been much work this week, perhaps due to the holiday. Ironically, however, I do have work today. Although I'm a little sad not to be joining a family friend for Thanksgiving, I've never been that big on Thanksgiving, and my appetite is kinda dim these days (decongestants- it's an unpleasant side effect that seems to compound itself over time).

A few gym-related comments: first, I very nearly pushed a woman off the machine next to me the other day- heavy perfume to the point where I could taste it on my tongue! Y'don't go to the gym to smell nice, and you certainly don't go to smell like some kind of mutant chemistry experiment! I have a disdain for the women who show up in make-up, push-up bras, and heavy earrings as well, but the perfume-wearers are actually getting in the way of other people's work-outs.
On a more cheerful note, I've discovered that despite occasionally having to wait for lifting machines, I like going to the gym right after typical work hours, when it's most crowded. Better people-watching. People working out are hilarious.

So... does anyone actually read this thing? If so, someone should call me, because my tower's feeling bit isolated lately... Don't make me send a honey badger after you!

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

No, Amy, right now I'm the Bobblehead

Well, in some ways I'm pulling myself together. Yesterday I had my hair very carefully chopped in half, so that it sits right at my shoulders. Let's hear it for less weight on the brain-case! Continuing in the bodily vein, I've been working out 4-5 times a week, and it's definitely having an effect. I keep trying to get my mom to smack my butt and tell me that it's getting firmer, but for some reason she doesn't want to... maybe it's a generational thing.

I continue to work on flying south for the winter. I think it's funny that everyone's reaction when they hear the word Africa has been either "Why???" or "But there are so many parasites down there!" Yes, yes there are many parasites, and I plan to be one of them!

So here's a bit of insight into the little annoyances and set-backs of a search for volunteer work: In the past few weeks, I've sent two application requests to a research volunteer position, and I've heard diddly-squat. What's more, the website doesn't appear to supply any numbers where I can call and harass them. At that time, this was the only affordable place I had found, and they appear to be incompetent. So I moved on. I paid five dollars to a low-cost volunteering database, and I've been perusing the possibilities. At first glance, there are a lot of them, but when you look closer, there are ways in which they rule themselves out. The price is always a big factor, and you need to read between the lines to figure out whether they actually let volunteers do anything interesting.

And so the quest goes on. Wish me firm muscles and viable africa options.

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Concerning Featherduster Bugs

First, a disclaimer: This isn't an criticism my parents. If it was, why would I write it in a blog I know they read? So, to my parents, please don't take this as a personal attack.

I don't enjoy being home. It just isn't my venue. I know most people get all dewy-eyed about childhood memories, and sigh about how great it would be to be a kid again- not me. Go back to letting someone else make all my decisions? No, thanks just the same.

I spent most of my childhood in other worlds, which is to say, deep inside my head. Well, mine and my sister's. Since we shared a lot of games, it's fair to say we spent a good deal of time in each other's heads. Being back in Skunk Hollow (yes, we named our house- get over it) has a tendency to bring back that general feeling and mindset. It feels like this (A) I have no control over what happens to me (B) Why bother trying at anything? (C) This is boring. You can imagine up a life way better than this.---It starts with a sort of catatonia, where I spend all my time reading and watching movies, and the next thing I know, I'm hearing voices- it's called writing. I start writing in every spare moment, chapters come flying from my fingers, and I've got characters prancing around in my dreams. That would all be very well, except that it also means I stop communicating with the outside world. My college friends call it Irene's Dark Place. In extreme situations, I stop answering my phone or going online at all.

So where do featherduster bugs come into this? Patience, my friends.
I don't know the proper name for these tiny beasties, and I've never seen them outside of New England in the autumn, which suggests that in other seasons, they're probably not so flamboyant. But in autumn, they are a vibrant blue-purple that stands out dramatically against our famous red and yellow foliage, despite the fact that these bugs are about the size of a pin head. They have diamond-shaped, translucent wings that sit at the same angle as a butterfly's, and my favorite characteristic, they have a tuft of feathery white stuff that puffs out from their backsides as though they were wearing tutus. They float complacently on the air currents, and are extremely easy to catch, with a slow swipe of one hand. From there, they will crawl to the highest point of your hand, just like a lightning bug, and take off again.

I like them. That was probably becoming obvious. To me, featherduster bugs are a reminder of the ridiculous in the midst of the mundane. They also remind me of all the things I haven't seen. After releasing a featherduster bug, my feet are that much itchier to leave Massachusetts (and it isn't athlete's foot- I checked). But you can't completely trust the featherdusters to get my butt in gear. They also bring out the chatty side in my characters. See, I write for the same reason I travel- to meet new people, see new places, and do things I've never done. Sometimes the featherdusters just drive me further into my head.

In conclusion, for those of you who haven't read between the lines, I'm having a bit of trouble with Liftoff. Mostly, it's decision-making that stumps me. And not wanting to see my money go away... I need to make sure that after my adventure, I still have the funds to come back and survive until my next paycheck. Not as easy to achieve as it is to type.

So this isn't so much an update of my activities as it is a bit of insight into my mindset. Because this is what happens when I come back- I start thinking, instead of doing, which is a maddening cycle to get into. Grrargh.

This is the dog who sits in my lap and gives me the "Rubbing my belly is more important than going away and leaving me" look. Hard to withstand sometimes.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

West Virginia and too much philosophy

Life is slow for the moment- I got back a few days ago from four days in Capon Springs, WV, where my father's family has traditionally congregated for gossip and hilarity. I discovered several important things in this short time: (1) Homegrown golden apples are delightful to body and soul (2) My cousin's daughter looks exactly like her and has an awesome maniacal cackle when she's particularly amused (3) My cousin's son is secretly Calvin of Calvin and Hobbes, and may someday take over the world so he can play baseball all day. I'm not worried about this event, since it will inevitably make baked fudge pudding into an everyday dessert. (4) Capon does not serve baked fudge pudding after lunch on Thursday.

I hadn't seen this portion of my family since last October, so it was amazing to see how everyone has grown or changed, and to hear what they've all been doing... You know, I'm confused about how to cover things like this in a blog. Logically, the people who were there already know everything, and do the rest of you really care whether I played ping pong or walked to White Cliffs?

Since getting home, there are a couple things going on: I'm working again, of course, and getting my passport renewal paperwork sorted out despite certain uncooperative staplers (not naming names). Also, while in WV, I took a lot of old pictures off of Valerie's computer, and I was jolted by the ones of me taken right after college. I have a new, solid resolve to get back to that weight, which was toned and yet still healthy (no, I'm not planning to relive the gaunt, unhealthily skinny days, so no nervous hints, please). I'm finding a gym that will let me work out on a short term basis.

I've got several programs in mind for Africa, but I need help deciding on one. Or two. I need help. I need to talk to someone who either thinks about this stuff the way I do, or is able to put themselves into my mindset.

Question of the day: Why is it that I can never see my own decisions clearly, when everyone else's dilemmas usually seem crystal clear? Why do people need outside eyes to see their own lives in focus?

Ok, enough philosophy. Shaking out of the introspective mood... I love peanut butter and jelly. Nice, seedy multi-grain bread, crunchy peanut butter, and strawberry or grape jam... serious comfort food there.

Stayed tuned to this entry, because I'm going to attach pictures once I filch them from my father.
As you were.

Friday, October 16, 2009

Reunions: Sled dogs, roomies, hometowns and ex-jobs


I'm currently snugly ensconced in the curve of my mother's sectional couch, enjoying such luxuries as rum, fig newtons, free internet, and NCIS on dvd and on demand. All at once, even. I'm a multi-tasker.

I had a great visit to the Blue on Black team, almost two weeks ago now. The first question I asked after hugging Karin was "Who's that dog in the middle there??" I was pointing to a tall, dark male. She grinned and answered "That's Chisel!" I was flabbergasted, stuck between "I can't believe I didn't recognize him" and "OH MY GOD HE'S SO TALL!" When I first met the dogs, Chisel was four months old, and able to fit into most average-sized laps. Not to mention, he was all skin and bones, recovering from a digestive issue.

The dogs are looking great- they've all been running with the four-wheeler for several weeks now. Most of them remembered me- Angel did a welcome dance, and I even received the rare Scooby face-lick- and I flitted from house to house, saying my hellos and blissfully letting them cover me with fur and mud. Ah, familiar dishevelment! I've come to the conclusion that tidiness is simply not my natural state. I prefer to be mussed. All the puppies were big, and I got complete report cards on all of them- for full details, please visit blueonblackdogs.com. My friend Adam, who drove me out there, and I had dinner with Karin and Varan and the new handler, and I have every confidence that the whole team, both human and canine will come through the season with flying colors. And Louise, the handler, gets extra approval points for taking some pictures of me with the dogs.

I flew home early the next morning. It was instantly weird being back in the Lower 48. I had mean jet lag to begin with, and spent the first few days in a bleary fog. Shortly afterwards, my college roomie, Amy, arrived to visit for the weekend (YAY!)! We frolicked gleefully- a trip to Boston, to frolic with Tricia, exploration of my native colonial town, all very exciting. Ok, well, the trip to Boston was exciting. It's sad for my curly-haired copilot that Concord doesn't offer anything more interesting than the North Bridge for entertainment. It's fine. I'm entertaining in my essence.

But now my roomie is gone, and I'm picking up some work from my former employers, a dog-walking agency. Good money, and the clients don't talk back. Well,I revise that: there was a boxer yesterday who definitely had some things to say about my presence in his house. We made up today. Anyway, it's something to keep me busy while I plan my exit.

I'm bored. People are encouraged to call and say hello.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

One Day Left

Well, Glenn left this morning for his annual officer's training, and I've been busily wasting time. Tomorrow is my last day in Alaska- at 2am on Tuesday, I hit the skies and head for warmer climes... well, a little warmer.

Fortunately, tomorrow I'll have something to do- my friend Adam has been kind enough to offer to drive me out to Wasilla, where Karin, Varan and the wet-nosed tailwaggers hang out these days. This I am really looking forward to! Expect an account after I get back to Mass.

Leaving any place is sad. It's funny, because I'm usually not thinking about it at the time. Once I get to the airport, then I start the dwelling and the sighing and the philosophizing. Something in the air systems of airports? Yes, I think we could make an argument for that.

People keep asking me what's next. I hate this question, not because it's not justified, but because I always feel like I'm jinxing myself if I reveal my plans. If I say it out loud too many times, plans seem to skitter away, or suddenly become too expensive, or become sidetracked by more mundane things. So I'll give you a rough idea, and then I'm clamming up:
The plan is for Africa. I've always wanted to go; it's been top of my list for a long time, partly because of all the continents, it is home to the most kickass animals. Lions? Leopards? Hyenas? Elephants? Cheetahs? Crocodiles? African wild dogs? Need I go on? Yes, of course I do- meerkats, rhinos, antelopes, hippos, jackals, giraffes, gnu, not to mention varous feathered and scaled critters. And I only skip over them because I don't know a lot of specific names. I hope to be working with some of these animals, either in a rescue or a research setting. I don't know exactly where, and I don't know exactly when- as soon as humanly possible. Of course, the african people are also extremely fascinating and I'd love to work with some of them as well. So. We'll see. That is my simplest answer to the "what's next" question. Hold your zebras- I'll give you particulars when I'm sure I won't jinx myself.

And no, I'm not superstitious, I just learn from experience.
To everyone in Skagway and from other adventures, I miss you. I'm feeling very In-Between and small right now.

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Back to Anchorage

It has been pointed out to me by various--even many--people that I am, as usual, abysmally behind on my blog. Well, come on, who couldn't see this coming? Do I go on facebook much? No. Do I email over-much? No. Am I in general a good correspondent? NO. But I digress.

Skagway became extremely windy as the cruise season approached its end- almost as though to hurry the last remnants out so that the town could go merrily about the business of collecting nuts for winter. The 23rd of September was our final cruise ship day- I consider the first tourist-free day of the year as my birthday present!

Yes, I am now technically 26 years old. But since I intend to go on behaving like a child, I consider it irrelevant. To be honest, I practically forgot all about my birthday until the day before- first time that's ever happened!

With the cruise ships gone, the town is very empty. The stores are closed, and those of us who used to be salespeople now start on inventory. So relaxing. No answering the same stupid questions all day, no diverting questions about yourself, no bending over backwards to match up sets of earrings with necklaces. No talking at all, if you don't feel like it. I was appointed as Kirk's minion, and spent most of the day following him around helping with whatever was on his to-do list. On my day off, I packed like a maniac, then back to inventory for my last day. Sunday I night, I drank with my co-workers- a great time, which resulted in a heavy hangover the next morning. Fortunately my driving buddy, Adam, had one to match, so we were a sight to see as we stumbled around, getting ready to leave town. We got out of Skagway around 10 am. Drove for fourteen hours, and then arrived in Anchorage. Contrary to popular prediction, both Adam and I survived the drive without so much as a stab wound.

And now I'm in Anchorage at Glenn's place, sleeping late and goofing off. Today, for example, I woke up at 11:23, showered, and then took a walk that ended up lasting three and a half hours. So that pretty much takes care of wasting time until Glenn gets off work. I will be doing this until the 5th, when I get to see Karin and the Pups. And then it's back on a plane, and off home... about which I have mixed feelings. But at least I get a visit soon from my favoritest college roomie, Miss Amy Slyfox. If we get lucky we'll even see Tricia the Rookie.

I'll hopefully post again later with whatever thoughts I forgot to mention in this posting. Still a little wind-dazed from my walk.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Quick

I put up a few pictures from my Juneau trip a month ago, on the appropriate posting- you're all smart enough to find them, if you're so inclined.

Not a lot happening here right now, except a few soul-searchings and a lot of trip-planning. My mother and my biological clone plan on visiting in early September, and Glenn may even put in an appearance. After that, my future gets misty again- I look forward to mist!

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Meandering Musings on being back

It's funny how going back to old friends can remind you of who you are. Even though I don't feel that I acted much like myself in North Carolina, it has demonstrated to me that here in Skagway, I've been a mere shadow of my formal self, no confidence at all. So since getting back I've been letting my personality flex its wings again, and it feels good. Skagway is so small that people have nothing to do but create drama, and it takes leaving town to realize how inconsequential these little fracases really are. Rather than worrying about drama that other people are splashing around, I'm content to hang out with the lesser of the dramatic folk, and stare at the mountains and the ocean and remember why I came to Alaska in the first place.

Finding the motivation to sell things has been difficult this week. I always find that after leaving Wolf Park or the people from there, I have a strong "I want to go home" reaction- the Park being home. And yet I know I don't do well when I stay in one place. Well, what is life without its contradictions? My father tells me that contradictions are what make good characters and good books. Anyway, it's hard caring about finding someone a matching set of earrings when secretly, you're thinking more about a wolf's funeral in Indiana.

Also, I've been having funny dreams, related to some life realizations I had down Southways. This makes it hard to focus.

In other news, the quest for an African adventure starts today on the internet. Wish me luck.

Monday, August 3, 2009

Over my shoulder, upon return

Well, I just got back from Nick and Payton's wedding in North Carolina (and boy, are my arms tired? Anyone? No? K, moving on-) . I arrived in Skagway to find it wreathed in the smoke of a forest fire which is going on several hundred miles away- we must take into account that this fire encompasses about 500,000 acres. Very bad summer for fires. Also, the whole town smells like fire, which I actually rather enjoy...

The wedding was lovely- the dress was beautiful, I loved the informal rehearsal dinner, and the food all around was brilliant. Of course the crowning highlight was the groom's cake, which was red velvet and shaped like a roadkill deer. Complete with red gummy worm guts. Oh yeah. Ceremony itself was quite short. It didn't make me cry, but some of the toasts nearly did the trick! And making me cry is not easy, unless you make me furious (for whatever inconvenient reason, blind fury sets off my tear glands)

It was wonderful seeing Payton and Nick so happy, and just as wonderful seeing the other Wolf Park people involved! I did go through some stress caused by a person present, but since I didn't start a blog as to gossip or trash-talk, I'll bypass that point as quickly as I raised it. Suffice it to say that certain kinds of stress really play with my digestive system, so I think I may be the first person in history to actually lose weight in the course of wedding festivities. But despite this, I had a great time catching up with people.

A brief note about a wolf named Orca: a number of Park wolves have died recently, but I believe that Orca's funeral will draw the greatest crowd that the Park has seen in years. He was a figure of inspiration to many, many people across the world. An early alpha in the main pack, he lost the use of his back legs when he was three by slipping a disc in his spine. He regained 80% use of them for the majority of the rest of his life. The last few years, he dragged them beneath him, only using them when offered substantial rewards. But Orca never lost his enthusiasm for food and human company, or for life itself. We never had any particular sign that his days were almost done- an intern found him peacefully still in the grass one morning. He was fifteen.
Orca, I'm very sorry that I couldn't make it to your funeral. You and I had many good talks over the years, and you know that wherever I was, I was thinking of you. Indomitable, incorrigable, stubborn-ass wolf. I'll miss you. Maybe now you can visit me now and then? Much love, Irene

Monday, July 13, 2009

An Assorted Collection of Short Tales

Ok, I've been neglectful, and I admit that. I'd like to be able to tell you that in my time away, I've become a better salesman... But I'll just move on, and take from that what you will.

It feels like I've been very busy, but in fact not much exciting has been going on. Skagway celebrates the summer solstice a week before it actually happens (a shoddy but entertaining excuse to get drunk twice instead of once). So I had plenty of beer at the community event, and then a week later I decided to spend the actual solstice night on my own. With the assistance of lots of black tea, I stayed up all night, just to check out this claim that Alaskans like to boast about, that the sun never sets in the middle of the summer.
Turns out, it wasn't all bluster. The sun dips below the horizon, but instead of the light fading away, it sneaks around the horizon, from west to east. Once it reaches the east, it starts to rise. By 4:30 it was as bright as it is at 9 when I go to work. I took a run at 2AM without a flashlight, and walked out to the point at 4- there were four sea lions poking their heads out of the waves, and some of the cruise ships were already in. I was tired, but it was a good experience.

On a slightly more adrenalized note, there was a fire in my building. Alaska's been abnormally dry this summer, and forest fires are breaking out, so burn bans have been placed on the towns. Unfortunately, drunk people aren't always mindful of where they flick their cigarettes. My building is a very old shop, currently empty except for the rooms upstairs. (It also lists slightly to the right....) At around 2:30 in the morning, I was awakened by the soft, quavery voice of my elderly landlady- "Irene... Irene, we need to go outside... the building is on fire!" Heh. I got up. We waited for maybe half an hour, watching the firemen pull boards out of the side of the building and the boardwalk, making sure no spark got away. Which made me feel better, given that the fire was right underneath my room. Once I got back inside, I realized that the room smelled strongly of smoke. So that was a new experience for me.

On the Fourth of July, I always think about Wolf Park, where they have their own fireworks and burn their butchering pants. Skagway races rubber ducks down their creek- it's called the Ducky Derby. I actually missed the Ducky Derby. Some may recall mentions of my friend Glenn in Anchorage, who let me crash at his place when I realized most of Alaska doesn't open until May. We've been planning a visit for a while, but due to various airport snafoos, we finally decided to meet in Juneau, a short flight for him, ferry trip for me. I have to take another moment to praise the ferry- I had another beautiful day for it, and it's a gorgeous ride, which always brings my book ideas to light.
We watched the fireworks in Juneau, then headed out to the campground by the Mendenhall Glacier. There was an attempt to hike to the glacier, but after a while we realized that (a) the trail was going the wrong way and (b) it was going to be dark by the time we got back, and we hadn't brought a flashlight. Oh well. It was a gorgeous hike anyway:

It was great to have a break from Skagway, which has been starting to feel very small lately, despite my fondness for small towns. The plane ride back was awesome, though- a six-seater, soaring just over the mountaintops. I can see what my grandfather found so alluring in the skies.
I also need to say a word of appreciation for these tiny flights. When I confessed to the woman who checked me in that I had accidentally brought two knives with me, she said in a very bored tone "that doesn't matter for this flight". For these details, it's hard not to love Alaska.

I'm still missing the sled dog team painfully. I wake up and expect to find Barley or Gringo in my bed.

My latest project has been trying to make arrangements with my boss and the airlines for the wedding of my friends, Payton and Nick. Not so easy, from the Last Frontier, and I have a feeling I'm going to experience some culture shock... But I'm still looking forward to a break and to seeing people I don't often get to see.

Monday, June 1, 2009

Irene and the Nomadic Oath

Before we get into the Nomadic Oath, I have to describe the bear cubs I saw this morning- three of them, playing in the tall grass by Smuggler's Cove. I'd been warned earlier on the trail that they were down there, and that Mama Bear was asleep, so I approached very quietly, and was able to watch the cubs ambling around in the sunlight. Two were very dark, standard black bear coloring, and one was pale golden- the spirit bear coloration! So cool! I will be talking about this all day, until people smack me and tell me to shut it!

Okay. About the Nomadic Oath. As you all know, I've chosen to spend the last three years traveling, rather than staying in one place. Many people have argued with me about this choice and the choices which have, of necessity, accompanied it. But the fact is that if you truly wish to keep traveling, there are certain things you have to give up.
A) Excessive possessions. Obviously. I can't be lugging massive amounts of stuff around
B) Certainty in my future. Better hope the seat of your pants is sturdy, because there are times when you have to fly by them.
C) Financial stability. Travel jobs do not allow for a 401K
D) Pets. That one sucks. A certain kitten in Brazil named Pockets will attest to this one with me, as well as a team of sled dogs outside of Anchorage.
E) Long-term relationships. This one can be a relief, and it can be very painful. But you can only look out for yourself. You can't require that someone else follow you around, and you can't expect them to wait for you.

That's just a little bit about the traveler mindset, for those of you who have been curious.

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Well, I feel pretty settled into my new life. I'm getting my room the way I want it (besides being messy), I have friends down the hall, and I know the majority of what I'm doing at work. Selling stuff all day does get a little tedious, and I know I'm not the best salesperson in the world, because I don't want to push anyone into buying something they don't want or can't afford. What I really like is when I can help them find something they'll really love. And if they're on the fence, I send them down the street for a pint of my favorite microbrew, and tell them to come back to me. Sometimes they do, sometimes they dont, but either way, we both got a pleasant conversation out of it. And when it's slow, I at least like the co-workers I'm hanging out with.

I've been reading the writings of my illustrious clone in my down time- and been highly disturbed by the number of parallels between our books.... almost like we grew up together. Although I suspect that Val may be more of a romantic than I am.

Today is my day off, and I've run out of things to do. A hike is obvious enough, although I've done most of them by now... Sigh. Pity I'm writing this blog on a sleepy day. But I'd better wake up- tonight is the last trivia night at the Red Onion (bar, and ex-brothel), which is bound to be a rowdy, drunken event- oh yes, don't be fooled by the connotation of the phrase "trivia night". I'm swiftly learning that Skagwegians and seasonals will take any excuse to drink.

Right then, I'm gonna peace out. The only thing left to add is that several little birds have told me that the last company I worked for seems to be rotting from the inside and falling apart with increasing speed.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Aftermath

So here's the thing. My life is completely different now. I'm living in the center of Skagway, in a room above an empty store front, and I work a block away, selling jade and ivory to tourists. Fortunately, I love jade, and I know a bit about it, and I'm especially peppy on the subject of the Maori-design carvings. I even know what they mean (as I preen my feathers). A perk and a downside of the job is that we're not allowed to wear our own jewelry. We're required to model the merchandise. Oh yes, poor little me. Let me wipe the tears away.

How did I get here from my last entry? I will say only this- I have a very angry email to write to Alaska Excursions, and I'm beginning to feel that mushers as a group, with the exception of Karin, are arrogant fuckholes.

I moved into the hostel when my life came crashing down, and made friends with the owner, Nancy. She's an awesome person, and was really helpful to me and to some of the other girls coming through who were looking for work. She pointed us in the direction of Shirley and Glenn, who rented us our rooms and are equally cool people. I'm also a big fan of my employers so far. To be honest, I'm really missing building fires in the evening, and even more I miss the dogs and the outdoors. I'm not an indoor cat, by nature. It's hard being inside when the sun is out. But all in all, this is a better situation for me.

To everyone who propped me up this past week, you guys are amazing and I miss you! To everyone who beckoned me back to work for them- you don't even know how tempting it was! My bag would have been packed and my butt on a plane, if my bank account hadn't basically stranded me here! But my heart's down south, with you guys!

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Less snafoo-age, more Tally-ho

Well, I finally built a successful fire last night, and slept for seven and a half whole hours before the cold woke me up! It was glorious. I'm feeling a lot more like my feet are underneath me since I've achieved heat, light, and cooking. Even better, there's a spot where I can find phone service, about half an hour or so's walk away from the camp. Without a tv to distract me in leisure moments, I'm thinking I might learn to sew or whittle.

Tomorrow we run the dogs for the first time, so my leisure time is about to dwindle dramatically. I spent most of today in town. Sampled the bakery, went to a rummage sale to find working pants without holes (my jeans were all massacred by (drumroll please) the foot-high turtle fence in Ecuador. Of all things), and took a walk out to a place called Smuggler's Cove, where I waded in the sea and climbed barefooted around on the cliffs and attained general merriment. I also have my first sunburn of the season, which I always kind of enjoy. I'm not a masochist, it's just... it's kinda cool- shut up! Anyway, sunburns remind me of Santa Martha, in Ecuador, and I get a little homesick for Tambillo.

My only real concern now is that I have a feeling I'll have to unlearn a lot of what I already know about handling. Everyone does things differently, after all. We'll see. I'll update as soon as I can. Looking forward to my first paycheck!!!

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Skagway Snafoos

Well, Tuesday was a very difficult day for me. To begin with, I didn't get a chance to say goodbye to the dogs, Karin or Varan- timing just didn't work out. I definitely shed a tear or two over that (no, I'm not exaggerating; it made me really sad). In the afternoon, Glenn drove me to the airport, said a quick goodbye, and I flew to Juneau, feeling very mopey. It didn't help that I had to sleep in the Juneau airport, which is not overnighter-friendly.

The ferry ride to Skagway the next day did a lot to cheer me up- not only was the perfect warm and sunny and clear, but the route is gorgeous. The water of the Inner Passage is dark green, and pine-forested cliffs come right down to the water. I saw a pod of orca, and lots of sea lions sporting at the surface along the way!

I'm going to skip the long story that goes with my Skagway arrival. Suffice it to say that although I had planned to spend several more days traveling, I ended up ten miles from Skagway, settling into Flag Iris Cabin, where I'll be living in for the season. I made two realizations shortly after walking in. First, the light switch and plug-ins on the walls are there solely for taunt value. Flag Iris has no electricity- somehow I missed that in the fine print. No problem- I can adapt. Second realization. Although I have assisted in building fires, I have never done it myself, and never even touched a wood stove. I have a propane cooking stove, but no propane. And no form of light. And no cell coverage, so no communication with the outside world. I was feeling considerably in over my head.

Another handler gave me a quick lesson in wood stoves, and I managed to get my hand on a candle for the night. Today, I got a ride to town, and supplied myself with propane and an oil lamp. I explored the town- Skagway's heyday was during the yukon gold rush, and these days it's a popular tourist trap, moving thousands of tourists through a day (which, of course, is how I managed to get a job here). Every building looks like something out of an old western. People are friendly and helpful. I wasted some time by taking a walk up one of the surrounding mountains, to a little lake. By the time I got back, the library was open, and I was able to reach my email and blog.

I'm still feeling overwhelmed, and I'm sure it'll get worse when I go back to Dyea (the horse camp where the cabins are), but right now it feels like something I'll quickly get used to. New locations always have some surprise to throw you off. Luckily, these are skills I've been hoping to learn anyway. I'll just have to learn them a trifle quicker than I imagined!

Being suddenly cut off from communication makes me miss everyone more than usual. So to anyone who actually bothers to look at this blog, bear in mind that I AM thinking of you, even though I can't get to you...

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Hovering

I've been trying not to be neglectful, but my post from Talkeetna didn't go through- it was good too. I think you all would have enjoyed it. Lessee, here, what's been going down?
The highlights of Homer were being within fifteen feet of a moose without a fence between us, and then the next morning, looking up to see a bald eagle hovering not ten feet above my head. I was walking along the ridge above the shore, right around dawntime, and the bird was out sporting in the wind. Then, on the bus ride out of Homer, I finally got to see Mt Redoubt, our friendly neighborhood volcano, merrily steaming away.

Talkeetna was next- the hostel there was fantastic, very cozy and filled with friendly people. I always forget how much I enjoy the company of other travel-minded people. See, I find that I spend a lot of my time in sedentary society trying to explain my choices. But hostels are filled with people who take wanderlust for granted- it's very relaxing.
Talkeetna itself is an artsy little town, nestled in the curve of the Alaska Range. It's all birch and pine forest, and consists of little most than one street. Tourist season is just beginning to strike, so it wasn't mobbed yet, which is the way I prefer it.

I came back to Anchorage on Sunday night, and I'm back at Glenn's place, trying to coordinate transportation east, to the panhandle. Somehow I need to get my stuff shipped to Skagway, and some back home, and I'd really like to visit Karin, Varan and the dogs again before I leave! But my transportation is limited- Glenn's already having to pull strings to help me get my boxes to the post office, and he's driving me to the airport as well, so I don't think we can ask much more of him. I may have to be content with a daytime visit to grab the boxes and pet the dogs...

I was surprised at how sad it made me to be relocating once again. It's always just when you get comfy in a place that you have to leave. I'm trying to focus on the positive, though. I go to my new home on Saturday, and until then I'll be parking the bulk of my possessions in Skagway and exploring the panhandle, if all goes according to plan. Wish me luck!

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Checking in from Homer

I'm on the road, which means that the world is once more in its natural order. Glenn drove me as far as Seward, from which point I hopped a bus to Homer. I can't see Mt. Redoubt, because it's basically been cloudy since I got here, but everyone assures me that it's still smouldering.

Homer's a tiny town, and not quite open yet for the season, but I just had an awesome early lunch at the Two Sisters Bakery (white chocolate and lavender cookie- who'd a thunk it?) . The plan for the afternoon, once I get my advance travel plans sorted, is to spend most of the day walking- still want to see that volcano!! Anywho, the mountains and the ocean are gorgeous, and the wind has a way of reminding you not to sweat the small stuff!

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Offseason tourist towns can suck it

Friday started off so well... Glenn dropped me off at the bus, and I watched the scenery go by for two and a half hours until we reached Seward. At which point it's always a good idea to secure lodging right away, especially when you're weighed down by a hiker's backpack.

One of the reasons I chose Seward was because it had three hostels, and I figured that at least one must be open for the summer already. I figured wrong. I trekked around Seward for five hours trying to find affordable lodging, with no success. The lowest rate I found was 49 a night. I do not have that kind of money. And as far as I knew, there was no bus going back to Anchorage until Monday (found out later there was a saturday morning bus, but I still needed to find a place to sleep.) My ass was saved by a woman named Michelle, who I met in a coffee shop, who invited back to stay at her house. She turned me loose on the kitchen, gave me a place to sleep, let me shower- even spent at least half an hour working on my grandmother's pendant when the clasp broke! Yesterday, she and I slept in, I spent some time writing, and then she drove me back to Anchorage. She saved my butt- here's a shout out to Michelle! Thank you so much, again!

So now I'm back at Glenn's place, trying desperately to find some place I can go where I can afford both transportation and lodging! I'm so frustrated I could turn my teeth inside out! What I wouldn't give for money and a car!

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

I Hate Packing

So here's the plan: rather than staying at Blue on Black for the next two weeks before my job in Skagway begins, I'm going to try and travel around Alaska, at least as far as my funds will allow. I'll be working at the kennel tomorrow, then heading into Anchorage to spend the night at my friend Glenn's apartment, then taking an early bus towards Seward, which is about halfway out on the Kenai peninsula. It's supposed to be pretty. I'll let you know. I'm hoping to get some hiking done, and maybe some other activities if I can afford them. Otherwise, it should just be nice to chill, write, and stare at the mountains and the ocean.

Glenn tried to scare me about traveling alone in Alaska, but I'm not worried- and I only mention this, because for those of you who are tempted to fret (coughparentscough) be comforted by the fact that I carry Scooby Bob, my knife. Trust in Scooby Bob.

I spent a large chunk of the day trying to pack- never have been any good at that. Bottom line, I really hate putting things I like in places where I can't get at them. So why do I live this way, you ask? Shut up and stop asking so many questions. Pesky, is what you are!
I've gone over Karin and Varan's computer, filching their photos of the dogs for my private collection. I also spent a number of hours harvesting pictures off facebook. Since my last computer's hard drive crashed while I was in Ecuador, I lost ALL my own pictures, and I finally got fed up with not being able to see the faces of the people I care about. You guys know who you are- I can see you all now! Oh yes. I'm watching you.
Ahem. Excuse the Moment. I miss you guys. My shiny new picture slideshow has made me homesick.

Other news? I broke up a dog fight the other day- four of the Blue on Black girls are full sisters, and they share the same bitchy tendency towards other dogs. Cerveza, Azure, Luna and Sable. They're all sweetness and light when it come to people, but dogs? Nah. They embody the word "bitch". Anywho, they were loose together in a pen while I cleaned up, and Sable and Cerveza formed a brute squad and started attacking the other two. Not that Luna and Azure were guiltless- when they weren't the ones being mobbed, they joined the party ripping at their sister! I had the drag the girls apart, and spent a while going over each dog, looking for wounds. Azure and Luna are now getting thrice-daily antibiotic spritzings. I had to wash dog blood out of my clothes- the experience kinda shook me up, overall. I'm not used to seeing my kids so vicious with each other.
This is actually what Azure looked like after a visit to the vet in January to lance an abcess, but I think it conveys the general mood. Are you feeling the urge to cuddle? Don't worry, that's natural...
I think I'll go outside and see the dogs.

Monday, April 6, 2009

Tweedlydum

I'm starting to think about how sad it's going to be when I leave the dogs. I was out there cleaning the dog lot today, and everyone was being so damn cute! Fly snaps his teeth at you to hurry you over to his lot, because he knows he's not supposed to bark. Flip does this impatient tap-dance thing with his forepaws, Deja puts her head up-side down and waves a paw- then you scratch her butt and she flips over! Alis will make bedroom eyes up at you and snuggle against your side. Gringo is my sleeping buddy. The pups have finally learned about jumping up on their houses to ask for attention- which doesn't mean they won't follow you around and try to shove their noses in your butt! Yeah. I'll even miss that. I know the dogs and horses at my new job will also be cool, but right now it doesn't seem possible that they could be as awesome as my iditarod kids!
That's Fly to the right. He's the kennel stud (literally)
This is Scooby, a major leader
WSU and Luna in uniform

My job starts at the beginning of May, and I plan on leaving Blue on Black a couple weeks early. Thing is, I've been here for five months without time or opportunity to see the rest of Alaska- I've pretty much seen Juneau, Anchorage, and Wasilla. And Chugiak. which doesn't count. They tell me there's a lot more to Alaska. So as soon as I find out how to wangle the traveling cheaply, I'll head out, and hopefully arrive in Skagway at exactly the right time to start training. Looking forward to seeing more than two people a day- nothing against Karin and Varan; they're lovely people and lovely to live with, but in the last place I lived, I shared my room with five other people. The transition was rather jarring.

This is my kids, doing what they love best, photo courtesy of Leanne Quirk. It's the ceremonial start of the Iditarod. Scooby and Angel are in front, the little red dog behind them is WSU (pronounced Wazoo), Shotgun's behind her, followed by Trouble, then Voodoo, then Flip.




Note: It's been pointed out to me that most people were expecting to see siberian huskies. These guys are Alaskan huskies, which means they've got a little bit of anything that makes them strong, fast, and cold-endurant- shepherd, greyhound, whatever. They're all different.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Day in the Life of a Handler

I get up around 8:30 most mornings to feed the dogs, then we let them digest for an hour before doing anything with them. With the snow out there thinning, we can't run the sleds from the house anymore. We loaded everyone in the trailer, and drove a short distance to trails with better snow. The plan was the run onluy five miles today- it's a stretch for the pups, easy for the adults.


The four puppies are Razor, Chisel, Cutter, and Hatchet (sharp-themed litter). Each one ran alongside an adult, to keep them in line. I got to ride along today! The sled Karin took on Iditarod is what's called a split sled- it's got a handlebar with the drag and brake right behind the sled bag, then another handlebar and a set of runners. I rode that back set, where all I had to do was some mild steering and hanging on. Once you get over the terror, riding the sled is awesome! You get to see the dogs in their element, doing the thing they love best!


Mercedes has been a surprise to us- she's a dog on loan to the kennel, and she started out really spooky, but especially since the great race, she's blossomed. Her whole expression and demeanor has changed! She ran in lead today with Angel, one of the main leaders, and every time we went slower than she wanted, she'd turn her head and bark imperiously! For a little squirt of a girl, she's tough- no injuries all season, and she never causes trouble! That's her in the picture, and Fly next to her.

We put Hatchet in lead with Angel for the last little bit, and he did beautifully! Barely even looked back, he just pricked his ears forward and ran.


After the run, we trailered back home, unloaded the dogs and let them trot around the lot for a bit before we put them back on their chains. The pups are just learning how that works... As we left the lot, we forgot that Alis hadn't been chained up yet, but she just hung out with the others until I came out to pick up. By the time I got there, everyone was sunbathing on top of their houses. It's warm out- 3o degrees F. Most of them just lounged on their sides enjoying a belly rub while I put ointment on their paws.


So that's a bit of what I've been doing for the last five months. Well, it's the laid-back part of it. People keep asking, and this is the best way I know of to just show them.

Friday, April 3, 2009

First Day on the Blog Scene

Here's the thing: people keep asking me to start posting a blog. I'm not an online person, and I really don't take the trouble to sniff out other people's blogs, cause I'd rather just talk to them. But I've buckled. There are so many people I want to keep track of, and there's no time to talk to everyone, so- tada! Maybe I'll even start reading up on you others!

My blog starts half an hour outside of Anchorage, Alaska. Before Alaska was Ecuador, before that was six months of dog walking, preceded by Wolf Park, preceded by a bar in Galway, Ireland. But right now, I'm wrapping up a five-month stay in Alaska. Early in November I was hired by Karin Hendrickson to be her sled dog handler for the season. Karin ran her first Iditarod this year, and she did fantastic! My job was to take care of the team, and manage her race supplies.

Blue on Black Kennel has 24 dogs right now- 25 counting Barley the pitt bull. And it would be stupid not to include Barley. Not only does he love to pull the sled and possesss the true spirit of a sled dog, but he's a major player in puppy training! I really kinda wish I'd started this blog five months ago, because I want to talk about every dog out there- I've become very attached. They're all such characters. I really think sheer luck landed me in exactly the right place as an iditarod handler, because Karin and her husband Varan are very affectionate with their dogs. They aren't just engines for pulling the sled. The dogs respond wonderfully to their people, and the whole team is better for it. A lot of dogs improve their performance and attitude when they come to Blue on Black!

Unfortunately, I'm in the process of changing missions. It's time for the next adventure. Ideally, I always want to be in a new place or doing a new thing, but right now my funds are a tad... gone. So my next venture will have to be a money-making one. Yesterday I was offered a job with Alaska Excursions, down in Skagway, AK. It actually sounds like an exciting sort of job, dealing with people, sled dogs, and horses, so I'm looking forward to it. I love variety in my week!

That said, I think I'll need to wrap this first post up- I haven't picked up the dog lot today, and there's a lot of crap out there with my name on it... Oh, the glamorous life f a traveler! :)