Skagway Snafoos

Well, Tuesday was a very difficult day for me. To begin with, I didn't get a chance to say goodbye to the dogs, Karin or Varan- timing just didn't work out. I definitely shed a tear or two over that (no, I'm not exaggerating; it made me really sad). In the afternoon, Glenn drove me to the airport, said a quick goodbye, and I flew to Juneau, feeling very mopey. It didn't help that I had to sleep in the Juneau airport, which is not overnighter-friendly.

The ferry ride to Skagway the next day did a lot to cheer me up- not only was the perfect warm and sunny and clear, but the route is gorgeous. The water of the Inner Passage is dark green, and pine-forested cliffs come right down to the water. I saw a pod of orca, and lots of sea lions sporting at the surface along the way!

I'm going to skip the long story that goes with my Skagway arrival. Suffice it to say that although I had planned to spend several more days traveling, I ended up ten miles from Skagway, settling into Flag Iris Cabin, where I'll be living in for the season. I made two realizations shortly after walking in. First, the light switch and plug-ins on the walls are there solely for taunt value. Flag Iris has no electricity- somehow I missed that in the fine print. No problem- I can adapt. Second realization. Although I have assisted in building fires, I have never done it myself, and never even touched a wood stove. I have a propane cooking stove, but no propane. And no form of light. And no cell coverage, so no communication with the outside world. I was feeling considerably in over my head.

Another handler gave me a quick lesson in wood stoves, and I managed to get my hand on a candle for the night. Today, I got a ride to town, and supplied myself with propane and an oil lamp. I explored the town- Skagway's heyday was during the yukon gold rush, and these days it's a popular tourist trap, moving thousands of tourists through a day (which, of course, is how I managed to get a job here). Every building looks like something out of an old western. People are friendly and helpful. I wasted some time by taking a walk up one of the surrounding mountains, to a little lake. By the time I got back, the library was open, and I was able to reach my email and blog.

I'm still feeling overwhelmed, and I'm sure it'll get worse when I go back to Dyea (the horse camp where the cabins are), but right now it feels like something I'll quickly get used to. New locations always have some surprise to throw you off. Luckily, these are skills I've been hoping to learn anyway. I'll just have to learn them a trifle quicker than I imagined!

Being suddenly cut off from communication makes me miss everyone more than usual. So to anyone who actually bothers to look at this blog, bear in mind that I AM thinking of you, even though I can't get to you...

Hovering

I've been trying not to be neglectful, but my post from Talkeetna didn't go through- it was good too. I think you all would have enjoyed it. Lessee, here, what's been going down?
The highlights of Homer were being within fifteen feet of a moose without a fence between us, and then the next morning, looking up to see a bald eagle hovering not ten feet above my head. I was walking along the ridge above the shore, right around dawntime, and the bird was out sporting in the wind. Then, on the bus ride out of Homer, I finally got to see Mt Redoubt, our friendly neighborhood volcano, merrily steaming away.

Talkeetna was next- the hostel there was fantastic, very cozy and filled with friendly people. I always forget how much I enjoy the company of other travel-minded people. See, I find that I spend a lot of my time in sedentary society trying to explain my choices. But hostels are filled with people who take wanderlust for granted- it's very relaxing.
Talkeetna itself is an artsy little town, nestled in the curve of the Alaska Range. It's all birch and pine forest, and consists of little most than one street. Tourist season is just beginning to strike, so it wasn't mobbed yet, which is the way I prefer it.

I came back to Anchorage on Sunday night, and I'm back at Glenn's place, trying to coordinate transportation east, to the panhandle. Somehow I need to get my stuff shipped to Skagway, and some back home, and I'd really like to visit Karin, Varan and the dogs again before I leave! But my transportation is limited- Glenn's already having to pull strings to help me get my boxes to the post office, and he's driving me to the airport as well, so I don't think we can ask much more of him. I may have to be content with a daytime visit to grab the boxes and pet the dogs...

I was surprised at how sad it made me to be relocating once again. It's always just when you get comfy in a place that you have to leave. I'm trying to focus on the positive, though. I go to my new home on Saturday, and until then I'll be parking the bulk of my possessions in Skagway and exploring the panhandle, if all goes according to plan. Wish me luck!

Checking in from Homer

I'm on the road, which means that the world is once more in its natural order. Glenn drove me as far as Seward, from which point I hopped a bus to Homer. I can't see Mt. Redoubt, because it's basically been cloudy since I got here, but everyone assures me that it's still smouldering.

Homer's a tiny town, and not quite open yet for the season, but I just had an awesome early lunch at the Two Sisters Bakery (white chocolate and lavender cookie- who'd a thunk it?) . The plan for the afternoon, once I get my advance travel plans sorted, is to spend most of the day walking- still want to see that volcano!! Anywho, the mountains and the ocean are gorgeous, and the wind has a way of reminding you not to sweat the small stuff!

Offseason tourist towns can suck it

Friday started off so well... Glenn dropped me off at the bus, and I watched the scenery go by for two and a half hours until we reached Seward. At which point it's always a good idea to secure lodging right away, especially when you're weighed down by a hiker's backpack.

One of the reasons I chose Seward was because it had three hostels, and I figured that at least one must be open for the summer already. I figured wrong. I trekked around Seward for five hours trying to find affordable lodging, with no success. The lowest rate I found was 49 a night. I do not have that kind of money. And as far as I knew, there was no bus going back to Anchorage until Monday (found out later there was a saturday morning bus, but I still needed to find a place to sleep.) My ass was saved by a woman named Michelle, who I met in a coffee shop, who invited back to stay at her house. She turned me loose on the kitchen, gave me a place to sleep, let me shower- even spent at least half an hour working on my grandmother's pendant when the clasp broke! Yesterday, she and I slept in, I spent some time writing, and then she drove me back to Anchorage. She saved my butt- here's a shout out to Michelle! Thank you so much, again!

So now I'm back at Glenn's place, trying desperately to find some place I can go where I can afford both transportation and lodging! I'm so frustrated I could turn my teeth inside out! What I wouldn't give for money and a car!

I Hate Packing

So here's the plan: rather than staying at Blue on Black for the next two weeks before my job in Skagway begins, I'm going to try and travel around Alaska, at least as far as my funds will allow. I'll be working at the kennel tomorrow, then heading into Anchorage to spend the night at my friend Glenn's apartment, then taking an early bus towards Seward, which is about halfway out on the Kenai peninsula. It's supposed to be pretty. I'll let you know. I'm hoping to get some hiking done, and maybe some other activities if I can afford them. Otherwise, it should just be nice to chill, write, and stare at the mountains and the ocean.

Glenn tried to scare me about traveling alone in Alaska, but I'm not worried- and I only mention this, because for those of you who are tempted to fret (coughparentscough) be comforted by the fact that I carry Scooby Bob, my knife. Trust in Scooby Bob.

I spent a large chunk of the day trying to pack- never have been any good at that. Bottom line, I really hate putting things I like in places where I can't get at them. So why do I live this way, you ask? Shut up and stop asking so many questions. Pesky, is what you are!
I've gone over Karin and Varan's computer, filching their photos of the dogs for my private collection. I also spent a number of hours harvesting pictures off facebook. Since my last computer's hard drive crashed while I was in Ecuador, I lost ALL my own pictures, and I finally got fed up with not being able to see the faces of the people I care about. You guys know who you are- I can see you all now! Oh yes. I'm watching you.
Ahem. Excuse the Moment. I miss you guys. My shiny new picture slideshow has made me homesick.

Other news? I broke up a dog fight the other day- four of the Blue on Black girls are full sisters, and they share the same bitchy tendency towards other dogs. Cerveza, Azure, Luna and Sable. They're all sweetness and light when it come to people, but dogs? Nah. They embody the word "bitch". Anywho, they were loose together in a pen while I cleaned up, and Sable and Cerveza formed a brute squad and started attacking the other two. Not that Luna and Azure were guiltless- when they weren't the ones being mobbed, they joined the party ripping at their sister! I had the drag the girls apart, and spent a while going over each dog, looking for wounds. Azure and Luna are now getting thrice-daily antibiotic spritzings. I had to wash dog blood out of my clothes- the experience kinda shook me up, overall. I'm not used to seeing my kids so vicious with each other.

This is actually what Azure looked like after a visit to the vet in January to lance an abcess, but I think it conveys the general mood. Are you feeling the urge to cuddle? Don't worry, that's natural...

I think I'll go outside and see the dogs.

Tweedlydum

I'm starting to think about how sad it's going to be when I leave the dogs. I was out there cleaning the dog lot today, and everyone was being so damn cute! Fly snaps his teeth at you to hurry you over to his lot, because he knows he's not supposed to bark. Flip does this impatient tap-dance thing with his forepaws, Deja puts her head up-side down and waves a paw- then you scratch her butt and she flips over! Alis will make bedroom eyes up at you and snuggle against your side. Gringo is my sleeping buddy. The pups have finally learned about jumping up on their houses to ask for attention- which doesn't mean they won't follow you around and try to shove their noses in your butt! Yeah. I'll even miss that. I know the dogs and horses at my new job will also be cool, but right now it doesn't seem possible that they could be as awesome as my iditarod kids!

That's Fly to the right. He's the kennel stud (literally)

This is Scooby, a major leader

WSU and Luna in uniform

My job starts at the beginning of May, and I plan on leaving Blue on Black a couple weeks early. Thing is, I've been here for five months without time or opportunity to see the rest of Alaska- I've pretty much seen Juneau, Anchorage, and Wasilla. And Chugiak. which doesn't count. They tell me there's a lot more to Alaska. So as soon as I find out how to wangle the traveling cheaply, I'll head out, and hopefully arrive in Skagway at exactly the right time to start training. Looking forward to seeing more than two people a day- nothing against Karin and Varan; they're lovely people and lovely to live with, but in the last place I lived, I shared my room with five other people. The transition was rather jarring.

This is my kids, doing what they love best, photo courtesy of Leanne Quirk. It's the ceremonial start of the Iditarod. Scooby and Angel are in front, the little red dog behind them is WSU (pronounced Wazoo), Shotgun's behind her, followed by Trouble, then Voodoo, then Flip.

Note: It's been pointed out to me that most people were expecting to see siberian huskies. These guys are Alaskan huskies, which means they've got a little bit of anything that makes them strong, fast, and cold-endurant- shepherd, greyhound, whatever. They're all different.

Day in the Life of a Handler

I get up around 8:30 most mornings to feed the dogs, then we let them digest for an hour before doing anything with them. With the snow out there thinning, we can't run the sleds from the house anymore. We loaded everyone in the trailer, and drove a short distance to trails with better snow. The plan was the run onluy five miles today- it's a stretch for the pups, easy for the adults.

The four puppies are Razor, Chisel, Cutter, and Hatchet (sharp-themed litter). Each one ran alongside an adult, to keep them in line. I got to ride along today! The sled Karin took on Iditarod is what's called a split sled- it's got a handlebar with the drag and brake right behind the sled bag, then another handlebar and a set of runners. I rode that back set, where all I had to do was some mild steering and hanging on. Once you get over the terror, riding the sled is awesome! You get to see the dogs in their element, doing the thing they love best!

Mercedes has been a surprise to us- she's a dog on loan to the kennel, and she started out really spooky, but especially since the great race, she's blossomed. Her whole expression and demeanor has changed! She ran in lead today with Angel, one of the main leaders, and every time we went slower than she wanted, she'd turn her head and bark imperiously! For a little squirt of a girl, she's tough- no injuries all season, and she never causes trouble! That's her in the picture, and Fly next to her.

We put Hatchet in lead with Angel for the last little bit, and he did beautifully! Barely even looked back, he just pricked his ears forward and ran.

After the run, we trailered back home, unloaded the dogs and let them trot around the lot for a bit before we put them back on their chains. The pups are just learning how that works... As we left the lot, we forgot that Alis hadn't been chained up yet, but she just hung out with the others until I came out to pick up. By the time I got there, everyone was sunbathing on top of their houses. It's warm out- 3o degrees F. Most of them just lounged on their sides enjoying a belly rub while I put ointment on their paws.

So that's a bit of what I've been doing for the last five months. Well, it's the laid-back part of it. People keep asking, and this is the best way I know of to just show them.

First Day on the Blog Scene

Here's the thing: people keep asking me to start posting a blog. I'm not an online person, and I really don't take the trouble to sniff out other people's blogs, cause I'd rather just talk to them. But I've buckled. There are so many people I want to keep track of, and there's no time to talk to everyone, so- tada! Maybe I'll even start reading up on you others!

My blog starts half an hour outside of Anchorage, Alaska. Before Alaska was Ecuador, before that was six months of dog walking, preceded by Wolf Park, preceded by a bar in Galway, Ireland. But right now, I'm wrapping up a five-month stay in Alaska. Early in November I was hired by Karin Hendrickson to be her sled dog handler for the season. Karin ran her first Iditarod this year, and she did fantastic! My job was to take care of the team, and manage her race supplies.

Blue on Black Kennel has 24 dogs right now- 25 counting Barley the pitt bull. And it would be stupid not to include Barley. Not only does he love to pull the sled and possesss the true spirit of a sled dog, but he's a major player in puppy training! I really kinda wish I'd started this blog five months ago, because I want to talk about every dog out there- I've become very attached. They're all such characters. I really think sheer luck landed me in exactly the right place as an iditarod handler, because Karin and her husband Varan are very affectionate with their dogs. They aren't just engines for pulling the sled. The dogs respond wonderfully to their people, and the whole team is better for it. A lot of dogs improve their performance and attitude when they come to Blue on Black!

Unfortunately, I'm in the process of changing missions. It's time for the next adventure. Ideally, I always want to be in a new place or doing a new thing, but right now my funds are a tad... gone. So my next venture will have to be a money-making one. Yesterday I was offered a job with Alaska Excursions, down in Skagway, AK. It actually sounds like an exciting sort of job, dealing with people, sled dogs, and horses, so I'm looking forward to it. I love variety in my week!

That said, I think I'll need to wrap this first post up- I haven't picked up the dog lot today, and there's a lot of crap out there with my name on it... Oh, the glamorous life f a traveler! :)