It feels like I've been very busy, but in fact not much exciting has been going on. Skagway celebrates the summer solstice a week before it actually happens (a shoddy but entertaining excuse to get drunk twice instead of once). So I had plenty of beer at the community event, and then a week later I decided to spend the actual solstice night on my own. With the assistance of lots of black tea, I stayed up all night, just to check out this claim that Alaskans like to boast about, that the sun never sets in the middle of the summer.
Turns out, it wasn't all bluster. The sun dips below the horizon, but instead of the light fading away, it sneaks around the horizon, from west to east. Once it reaches the east, it starts to rise. By 4:30 it was as bright as it is at 9 when I go to work. I took a run at 2AM without a flashlight, and walked out to the point at 4- there were four sea lions poking their heads out of the waves, and some of the cruise ships were already in. I was tired, but it was a good experience.
On a slightly more adrenalized note, there was a fire in my building. Alaska's been abnormally dry this summer, and forest fires are breaking out, so burn bans have been placed on the towns. Unfortunately, drunk people aren't always mindful of where they flick their cigarettes. My building is a very old shop, currently empty except for the rooms upstairs. (It also lists slightly to the right....) At around 2:30 in the morning, I was awakened by the soft, quavery voice of my elderly landlady- "Irene... Irene, we need to go outside... the building is on fire!" Heh. I got up. We waited for maybe half an hour, watching the firemen pull boards out of the side of the building and the boardwalk, making sure no spark got away. Which made me feel better, given that the fire was right underneath my room. Once I got back inside, I realized that the room smelled strongly of smoke. So that was a new experience for me.
On the Fourth of July, I always think about Wolf Park, where they have their own fireworks and burn their butchering pants. Skagway races rubber ducks down their creek- it's called the Ducky Derby. I actually missed the Ducky Derby. Some may recall mentions of my friend Glenn in Anchorage, who let me crash at his place when I realized most of Alaska doesn't open until May. We've been planning a visit for a while, but due to various airport snafoos, we finally decided to meet in Juneau, a short flight for him, ferry trip for me. I have to take another moment to praise the ferry- I had another beautiful day for it, and it's a gorgeous ride, which always brings my book ideas to light.
We watched the fireworks in Juneau, then headed out to the campground by the Mendenhall Glacier. There was an attempt to hike to the glacier, but after a while we realized that (a) the trail was going the wrong way and (b) it was going to be dark by the time we got back, and we hadn't brought a flashlight. Oh well. It was a gorgeous hike anyway:
It was great to have a break from Skagway, which has been starting to feel very small lately, despite my fondness for small towns. The plane ride back was awesome, though- a six-seater, soaring just over the mountaintops. I can see what my grandfather found so alluring in the skies.
I also need to say a word of appreciation for these tiny flights. When I confessed to the woman who checked me in that I had accidentally brought two knives with me, she said in a very bored tone "that doesn't matter for this flight". For these details, it's hard not to love Alaska.
I'm still missing the sled dog team painfully. I wake up and expect to find Barley or Gringo in my bed.
My latest project has been trying to make arrangements with my boss and the airlines for the wedding of my friends, Payton and Nick. Not so easy, from the Last Frontier, and I have a feeling I'm going to experience some culture shock... But I'm still looking forward to a break and to seeing people I don't often get to see.
I also need to say a word of appreciation for these tiny flights. When I confessed to the woman who checked me in that I had accidentally brought two knives with me, she said in a very bored tone "that doesn't matter for this flight". For these details, it's hard not to love Alaska.
I'm still missing the sled dog team painfully. I wake up and expect to find Barley or Gringo in my bed.
My latest project has been trying to make arrangements with my boss and the airlines for the wedding of my friends, Payton and Nick. Not so easy, from the Last Frontier, and I have a feeling I'm going to experience some culture shock... But I'm still looking forward to a break and to seeing people I don't often get to see.
